It is absolutely stable for anywhere in the world. Inserted between the usual truss rod adjustment nut at the heel and the truss rod, this ingenious device uses inclines and wedges to adjust the rod tension.
They are usually high and big change may take a couple days to settle fully in and playing it helps that process. They used to be small enough to fit, but recently many driver brands seem a little too large and some grinding on the outside diameter may be necessary.
The strings are buzzing against the first fret. The fix is simple: increase the amount of relief in the neck by loosening the truss rod. Remember in a single action truss rod: tightening the rod turning clockwise straightens the neck, loosening turning anti-clockwise permits it to bow. Your email address will not be published.
I use this forward bow feature most during the guitar-building process to get the neck perfect for fingerboard leveling and fretwork, which I discuss in my online guitar-making course. Many people only use and love the single-action truss rod. The double-action two-way truss rod is my preference also known as dual-action truss rod. There are two specific truss rods of this style that I like very much. One design I really like is the Flex Strong truss rod from Allied Lutherie above and LMI —though they are slightly different, the overall design is similar.
The latest version from Allied Lutherie is lovely and very high quality. This truss rod is lighter than the Allied Lutherie rod, and I also like the fact that the upper and lower bar are threaded into the nuts that connect them.
I have always had a small nagging concern about the welded parts one day breaking on the other types of rods that I have seen. I have my eye on this low profile truss rod to try soon as I think it might be even lighter. One thing to mention, though, is that double-action truss rods can buzz in the neck vibrate sympathetically when there is no tension on them, if not installed right.
Thankfully, I have never had any problems on a finished guitar, but it is something to be sure you do properly when installing the rod. The only thing I add to their steps is that I put some silicone in the middle of the rod slot, and in between the rods themselves in the center as well, to keep those areas quiet too, just in case.
I have been using the Hot Rods from StewMac in conjunction with two carbon fiber reinforcement rods for over 20 years. They have been great at keeping my guitar necks stable and resistant to fluctuation from string tension or changes in humidity. You can check out some computer printouts of my fingerboard and fretwork as scanned by a PLEK laser. The PLEK returned a report that the fingerboard was perfect and needed no adjustments on two of my scanned guitars. Both of those guitars used the Hot Rod truss rod.
You can see the printout and learn more about how I am able to accomplish a perfect set-up in my online guitar physics and set-up course. One other subtle yet important tip to add here is that when you are making the truss rod access cavity, it is critical to make sure there is some extra space around the adjusting nut , even if you are using the Allen nut version of the rod.
This is because when the rod is tightened to pull the neck back against the string tension, the rod can bow just a bit. So be sure to make some extra space below the nut so it can flex back a little bit under tension without hitting the wood.
I always test the truss rods before I install them into the guitar neck. If there is any chance of the guitar truss rod breaking, I want it to happen BEFORE installing it into the neck and finishing the guitar. All I do is route a slot into some scrap wood and temporarily insert the double-action truss rod into it.
I cover it with some other scrap wood and clamp it in place, leaving the nut exposed. Then I give it a good tightening, applying about as much pressure or maybe a tiny bit more than I anticipate it would ever have in the actual guitar.
If they pass this test, they are cleared to be used in upcoming guitar builds. Just as a side note: I have never had one break during testing, but I have heard tragic stories from other luthiers who did not do the testing step and had a rod break inside the neck, which is never a good thing. It is just a simple way to make sure there will be enough neck material below the truss rod cavity before I start building.
Guitar Truss Rod Adjustment Tips Before you begin adjusting the truss rod of your guitar, there are a few critical points to be aware of to minimize potential problems or even truss rod breakage: Only use the correct truss rod adjustment tool —Be sure the truss rod adjustment tool Allen key, truss rod wrench, etc. Mark the current location —Use a marker to put a line on the top of the nut, so you will know where you started from.
This works as a reference for how much you turned the nut and also a way to abort the mission if you need to go back to where it was. You do not want a shocking amount of stress suddenly applied; you want the wood to adjust to its new situation gradually.
Do not accidentally torque the adjustment nut to the side —Only turn it gently clockwise or counterclockwise.
Any torque to the side could bend or even break off the adjusting nut, if it is a welded nut double-action design. Regardless of whether you are adjusting an acoustic guitar or electric guitar, the truss rod adjustment itself is straightforward.
That pretty much sums it up. If you made it this far, you should now understand what a truss rod is, why it is so important, and which one is the best fit for your guitar.
When it comes to adjusting, be sure to keep those guidelines in mind and take it slow and gentle, allowing the neck to react over a few hours or more if needed before making more changes … and always use the right tool for the job. Tom Bills has been hand crafting one of a kind custom guitars for the top players and collectors around the world since You can view and learn more about his guitars by visiting his website: tbguitars. I make my own truss rods, they are single action.
But, are made like the double action. I need to find out how to make them into double action. Hi Mike, the double action rod is threaded on both ends of the rod that turns with opposite threads on each end. That way it can bow the neck backward to counteract string force when turned in the usual direction, but then when turned the opposite direction it will cause the neck to bow forward too. For me this is important when I do the fret work, so that I have full control of how I set the neck before filing the frets when I am doing the setup.
It is absolutely stable for anywhere in the world. Inserted between the usual truss rod adjustment nut at the heel and the truss rod, this ingenious device uses inclines and wedges to adjust the rod tension. They are usually high and big change may take a couple days to settle fully in and playing it helps that process. They used to be small enough to fit, but recently many driver brands seem a little too large and some grinding on the outside diameter may be necessary.
Remember in a single action truss rod: tightening the rod turning clockwise straightens the neck, loosening turning anti-clockwise permits it to bow. The strings are buzzing against the first fret. The fix is simple: increase the amount of relief in the neck by loosening the truss rod. Your email address will not be published.
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